Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Wael Mansour's Evo XI GSR

  • 453 bhp
  • 406 lb/ft torque

  • DC Sports catback with Perrin 3" cat delete pipe and power valve
  • AMS downpipe and O2 housing
  • AMS 50trim turbo
  • AMS exhaust manifold
  • GReddy Type-S FMIC with lower and upper intercooler piping kit
  • GReddy Profec B Spec II electronic boost controller
  • Walbro fuel pump
  • FIC 850cc injectors
  • SARD fuel pressure regulator
  • GSC S1 cams
  • K&N cone air intake filter

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Endless? What's Endless/Zeal?

Many people here in the UAE have never heard of Endless. This is a very good read about what Endless makes, and how they are different.

Personally, I'm well-convinced that they make really good brake systems and coilovers, though I have only been able to afford the coilovers (Function-X, not the Function-R) and not the big brake kit for the Evo :(

Thursday, October 25, 2007

F1 Driving Experience - Bahrain

Anyone keen on heading up to Bahrain to experience driving an F1 race car?

10 laps, Business Class flight, a full week of fun. AED30,000 (approx. SGD12,500)

Registration Form:

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Abdulrahman's 2006 Evo IX GSR

  • HKS 272 MIVEC (in) cam
  • HKS 272 exhaust cam
  • HKS adjustable cam gears
  • HKS EVC EZ-II electronic boost controller
  • HKS Silent Hi-Power catback exhaust
  • HKS downpipe with O2 housing and integrated cat delete
  • HKS fuel pressure regulator
  • Walbro GSS342 255lph high performance fuel pump
  • RC750cc injectors
  • HKS intake filter
  • ARP headstuds
  • 385bhp @ 6202 rpm
  • 414 lb/ft of torque @ 3984 rpm
Note: Power delivery is strong from 3500 rpm all the way through 6500 rpm. More output is achieveable through the use of the JDM MR DV in place of the HKS SSQV, and conversion to a full 3" free-flowing turboback exhaust system.

Oscar Cummin's 2006 Evo IX GSR - Stage 2.5

  • HKS 272 MIVEC (in) cams
  • HKS 272 exhaust cams
  • HKS adjustable cam gears
  • HKS fuel pressure regulator
  • HKS Silent Hi-Power catback exhaust
  • HKS downpipe with O2 housing and cat delete
  • HKS SSQV blow-off valve
  • Agency Power fuel rail
  • HKS Type-S intercooler
  • HKS valvesprings & retainers
  • HKS intake filter
  • GReddy lower intercooler piping kit
  • Walbro GSS342 255lph high performance fuel pump
  • ARP headstuds
  • RC750cc injectors
  • AMS Velocity Stack Runner (VSR) intake manifold
  • 407 bhp @ 5859 rpm
  • 383 lb/ft of torque @ 4609 rpm

Note : a significantly higher output could have been achieved with a 3" turboback system and a tubular exhaust manifold, as well as a stronger blow-off valve or a recirculating diverter valve

Thomas De Vries' 2006 Evo IX GSR - Stage 2

  • HKS 272 MIVEC (in ) cam
  • HKS 272 exhaust cam
  • HKS timing belt
  • HKS adjustable cam gears
  • HKS fuel pressure regulator
  • GReddy Profec B Spec-II electronic boost controller
  • Custom 3" turboback exhaust system
  • Megan Racing O2 housing
  • GReddy Spec-M intercooler with lower intercooler piping kit
  • ARP headstuds
  • K&N panel intake filter
  • 380 bhp @ 5359 rpm
  • 386 lb/ft of torque @ 3734 rpm
Previous setup here

Ryan Copeland's Evo IX RS (GT) - Stage 2

  • Blitz Nur-Spec catback
  • Custom 3" downpipe with integrated cat delete
  • GReddy Profec B Spec-II electronic boost controller
  • Walbro GSS342 255 lph high performance fuel pump
  • Port & polished head
  • HKS 272 MIVEC cam (in)
  • HKS 272 (ex) cam
  • HKS valvesprings
  • HKS adjustable cam gears
  • ARP headstuds
  • 356 bhp @ 6312 rpm
  • 354 lb/ft of torque @ 4124 rpm

Rex Valencia's 2006 Evo IX RS (GT) - Stage 1

  • Blitz Nur-Spec catback exhaust system
  • Custom 3" downpipe with integrated cat delete
  • GReddy Profec B Spec-II electronic boost controller
  • Walbro GSS 342 255 lph high performance fuel pump
  • Blitz panel air intake filter
Output (tuned for track duty):
  • 349 bhp @ 6828 rpm
  • 312 lb/ft torque @ 4374 rpm

Kyle Mckee's 2006 Evo IX GSR - Stage 1

  • Blitz Nur-Spec catback exhaust
  • Custom 3" downpipe with decat
  • GReddy Profec B Spec-II electronic boost controller
  • Blitz panel air intake filter
  • Walbro GSS 342 255 lph high performance fuel pump
  • JDM MR Diverter Valve
  • 360 bhp @ 6469 rpm
  • 355 lb/ft @ 3939 rpm

Charles Jesudason's 2006 Evo IX GSR - Stage 1

  • Blitz Nur-Spec catback exhaust with Blitz 3" downpipe
  • GReddy Profec B Spec-II electronic boost controller
  • Blitz panel intake filter
  • JDM MR Diverter Valve
  • Walbro GSS 342 255 lph high performance fuel pump
  • 329 bhp @ 6891 rpm
  • 313 lb/ft @ 3641 rpm

Friday, September 21, 2007

Cooling Q&A


1. Without changing the oem IC, will just changing the pipes suffice to bring about better and larger air flow, and hence cooler charged air?

2. How much hp can the oem IC suport WITH oem pipes support?

3. How much hp can larger diameter aftermarket hard pipes support?

Point to note:
I noticed the MME E9 by ST Powered uses the oem IC.


evolvix :
I guess the answer depends on which hardpipe kit you are looking at. Most aftermarket kits probably come with a bigger ID but the important thing to look out for is whether they come with less bends as well. From what I know, every single 45 degree bend slows down the air velocity significantly thus increasing lag and probably causing a pressure drop as well. Of course, bends that are greater than 45 degree are worse. In this respect, I think aftermarket kits help in maintaining boost pressure and reduces lag. As for enhanced cooling, I can't be sure but I will guess no.

To accomodate the straighter and bigger pipings, some kits require you to either relocate your stock battery or to use a smaller one. Personally, I will want a kit that has the shortest hence straightest pipings and one that's > 2.25" in diameter. I think its realistic to expect a power gain with these kits over the stock pipings simply because the stock pipings suck! Especially the stock lower piping between the compressor housing to the FMIC inlet. Picking up 'lost' boost pressure caused by the restrictive stock pipings should give you power liao!

As for the capability of the stock FMIC, I think there have been enough tests, even local ones, to prove there's substantial power gains to be had just by swapping it out for a more efficient unit EVEN on a stock Evo. Workshops can use what they want but no one can defy physics. Even assuming (optimistically) that the stock FMIC has a core that's as efficient as aftermarket ones, a bigger surface area will simply dissipate heat faster given the same amount of incoming airflow and the greater thermal mass will simply absorb more heat before being saturated. Look around, I'm sure you can find hard data and numbers locally.

Ideally, you should upgrade to a more efficient FMIC to lower your charge temp and use water injection to do in-cylinder cooling and detonation control. Remember though that a bigger FMIC works all the time while water injection requires constant monitoring, refilling and the jet size + spraying cycle really need to be tuned else you might lose power through the injection of too much water into your combustion chambers. Water injection systems can be unreliable too...pump failures, clogging of water lines, running out of water etc can cause damage to your engine if water injection is a critical part of your tune. Also, rem that although the in-cylinder cooling will bring about an increased density in air, the water molecules present in each intake charge (especially if you spray too much water or too often) will reduce its density too. In the end, you might face a compromised situation. Some says that the steam created in the chambers can also help in decarbonizing the engine but I can't be sure.

Personally, I will be setting up a 50-50 water/methanol injection system on my E9 soon. There's real benefits to using methanol so long as you are able to tune for it, and that the system is highly reliable and safe with all the monitoring measures and controls in place. I will not use 100% water because to me, there's too much hassle involved for too little gains. I guess as long as you understand what you are doing and know how to setup these systems, all should work as they are designed to. They are seldom mutually exclusive so I guess you can use all of them to bring about a greater effect to what you endeavour to achieve.

Monday, September 10, 2007

20G Evo IX MR GSR tuned by Calvin

Power : 406 bhp @ 7484 rpm
Torque : 321 lb/ft torque @5250 rpm

Setup for street. Note the way the car pulls from 3500 rpm!

Mods :
  • 20G-LT turbocharger
  • Cosworth Mivec Cams
  • Cut-Out
  • Aftermarket Intake Plenum
  • Open Pod Air Filter
  • HKS 680cc injectors
  • Sard 8 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator
  • Sard Fuel Rail
  • Greddy Intercooler Kit
  • Greddy Profec B Spec-II
  • Tuned on 91 Octane petrol

Thursday, August 30, 2007

An interesting Q&A

Taken off the SG Evo Club Forum:

cavallino wrote:
guys, what's the difference between:
1. slapping a HUGE turbo onto a stock engine
2. stroking up the engine to 2.4L and using a stock turbo.

Response by a senior member with a very good understanding of tuning principles:

Area under the curve.

You NEVER look at just peak figures. You want to know what's the percentage of peak torque available throughout the rev range.

A small turbo with large engine will give you peak boost from a lower rev and sustain that through a pretty large rev range. Think GTR 2008 or 997 Turbo engine for instance. Peak torque from <2000rpm style="font-weight: bold;">heating and reliability

both have shares of issue in terms of reliability. Basically once you modify, be prepared to reduce yr service interval periods

Depending on who builds yr stroked up engine, you may have reliability issues.

Big turbos will need a lot more upgrades to cooling as well.

torque curve (one is better at low end and the other at higher end?)
See earlier paragraph

fuel consumption
As usual it depends on how you drive. If you need to hit the high torque range all the time, the stroked up engine is probably better since you get it at lower revs. If you are a more disciplined driver, and can drive the car offboost, the larger turbo is better for FC.

As usual, I find it silly to discuss FC when you are concerned with power.

pick up, response, lag
Torque under the curve. Bigger engine better

Depends on whether you put stuff like external wastegates, BOVs etc

Monday, August 13, 2007

HOW-TO : Tuning the GReddy Profec B Spec-II electronic boost controller

Many Team Fruity members know that we recommend the GReddy Profec B Spec-II electronic boost controller because it is not only good value for money, but also holds and controls boost well. However, most people have no idea how to tune this boost controller, and the user guides are usually in Japanese. We were fortunate enough to have come across this article in the EvolutionM forums and we found this to be accurate and useful information for Evo owners running this boost controller.

Tuning the Profec B spec II

I was looking around online and found that there are still questions about dialing in the Greddy Profec B spec II even with the great write up we already have on this website. So I thought I would post up my findings in how I understand things in an effort to make things a bit simpler for those that still have questions or want a quick reference guide.

Here is a basic chart type setup to aid in figuring things out
(I personally chose to use PSI instead of KPa.)


Set -- % -- “Desired boost psi”
(Use to set general boost level)

Gain -- % -- “Boost consistency”
(Use to minimize boost taper—proportionately affects the overall boost level)

Set Gain -- psi -- “Boost response”
(Controls when the wastegate starts to open–use to maximize turbo spool up)

Warning -- psi -- “Maximum boost level”
(Sets the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed)

Limiter -- % -- “Maximum boost modifier”
(Sets the amount to reduce the boost psi if warning level has been reached)

Peak Boost -- psi -- "Highest boost achieved"


Initial setup: (I was looking for 22 psi)

Set 30% (this should put you at roughly 12-15 psi of boost)
Gain 5 % (this is the lowest setting available)
Set Gain 18 psi (desired amount minus around 4 psi)
Warning 23 psi (I was already running 23 psi w/ ECU control)
Limiter 1% (there’s really no reason to do more than this—the car can easily handle 23 psi with a stock turbo)
  1. Turn off the unit to set it to PSI, then turn the unit back on and turn PEAK BOOST to "on".
  2. Set the WARNING to one above desired boost, and the LIMITER to 1% (or whatever you want).
  3. Start to increase the GAIN first to minimize or remove the taper. In most cases you will not be able to completely eliminate the taper. Increase gain in small increments until boost is held pretty much to redline. If boost spike/surge occurs – go back down in value until it subsides (at this point you’re done with the GAIN).
  4. Adjust for the SET value next—simply by adjusting the percentage until you reach your desired boost levels. In my case that was 22 psi.
  5. Set the SET GAIN value last—the reason for this is because you want to get it as close to the SET value as possible to maximize spool up. Once you hit a boost spike or surge—lower it down till it subsides.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

How the ACD works

This thread is dedicated to the ACD system used on Lancer Evolutions. I'm cutting and pasting a bunch of useful information from around the Internet which hopefully, someone, sometime will find useful

A significant portion of the content here comes from and related links.


The Mitsubishi description also says that the ACD operates in a free state when rapid steering movements are made and when the hand brake is used. This means in those conditions that the drive must be going all to the front wheels.

Here is some info I got from BTR preparations who have tested and recorded what the ACD is doing. Their website also has some useful info on the ACD.

With the original ECU the mapping is fairly tame.....but having said that there will be a noticeable effect to the handling and traction when selecting between the tarmac or gravel/snow options. I would be surprised if much difference will be felt between snow and gravel on a wet tarmac road with road tyres as these 2 maps are broadly similar.

Based on the rally car, the car works better in the gravel mode on wet asphalt conditions than on the tarmac map. This is only relevant when driving the car at a speed where the car is generating wheel speed error
across the axles (sliding or on slippery surfaces with large throttle openings)

The biggest advantage for the average road driver is the traction out of corners on a wet road, which will be better in gravel mode. On a trailing throttle there is unlikely to be a difference as the diff pressure reduces
with low throttle openings.

For normal dry road use the asphalt map is the one to use as it locks the diff under braking to a larger extent than the snow/gravel maps - reducing the braking distances by aggregating the braking force through the
transmission - a trick the earlier Evos cannot match!


How does the Active Centre Differential system work?

Mitsubishi ACD - “active centre differential system” ACD is the new major technical feature that distinguishes the previous Evo 4-6 models from the new Evo 7 ACD is an extension of the technology used in for the anti yaw control systems (AYC) employed in various previous Mitsubishi models in the rear axle position.

The ACD system comprises an electric motor, driving an oil pump which pressures an oil reservoir to a peak 16-bar pressure. This reserve of “SYSTEM PRESSURE” is fed to the piston of the ACD plate pack via a modulation (proportion) valve. The modulation valve is software controlled by the “ACD ECU (electronic control unit).

The control inputs for the ACD electronic control unit are
4 wheel speeds
G force both lateral and longitudinal
Throttle position – a variable value
Braking state - on or off
Steering angle – neutral position (straight ahead) and off centre position provided by 3 optical inputs generated by rotation of the steering wheel.
Handbrake state – on or off
System pressure – Hydraulic pressure state
Mode switch state – to select Gravel, Snow or Asphalt software strategy (maps)

We fitted a Motorsport logging system to the E7 RS test car during our 90 mile shakedown run of the new car (in the well knownYorkshire Forest complex) prior to the Network Q Rally GB. The test data from the ACD system has provided a full understanding of how the system functions and it’s efficiency.

The “Gravel” and “Snow” software strategies are similar; Gravel has the highest ultimate locking value of the two. In “Asphalt” mode a unique software strategy is employed

The system is technically far superior to the preceding Evo models VC centre differential systems. The centre differential performing well and able to limit front to rear axle “slip” on full throttle to a mean of around 0.6% on a slippery gravel surface. To put this in perspective, a good condition VC unit on a Evo 4,5 or 6 would struggle to be better than 30% aggregate slip value, which is traction going out of the window.
Pressure can be introduced and lost within the ACD system at speeds surprisingly close to WRC car standards, which has allowed Mitsubishi engineers to use a complex and sophisticated software control strategy.

Which ACD electronic control unit should I use?

The production Evo 7 comes fitted with a relatively “soft” control code within the production electronic control unit. This means the potential of the ACD system is not fully realised without fitting an electronic control unit.

The RA553681K1 has a much improved software strategy aimed primarily for high performance road use, which works the ACD system more effectively than standard. We can recommended this unit for track day and fast road applications.

The RA553681K2 has a software strategy which is very specifically for Motor Sport use, which works the ACD system more effectively and harder than standard and may have negative life and warranty implications for the mechanical parts in the ACD system. This should not be used on a road car. The FIA have been asked to clarify the legality of using this unit in Motor Sport events and for the moment the unit should be treated and is listed in the parts system as a non-GpN legal part